Appian fail, Carmen win, and a pleasant interlude inbetween

Friday 7 July 2017 - I tried to 'do' the Appian Way today, but it was a big fail. I ended up on a bus that touched it, then veered away to places hitherto unknown, touched ancient stuff again, then departed again. I don't really want to talk about it. It was the most bone-shaking bus ride I have ever had, and it seemed to go on for ages. Actually, it did go on for ages.

So the only photo you get from this morning's exertions is of the Circus Maximus.

I finally escaped the bus back in Rome and happily walked from then on. Had a pizza near the Coliseum, went home for a nap, started packing, then ventured out again.

Piazza Navona with Bernini's fountains was glorious, despite the heat. I was desperate for somewhere to sit down in the shade but the church with steps had, in a very Christian way, fenced them off!

The highlight today, and one of the highlights of the trip, was a production of Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla. This is an historical site I haven't visited in Rome, and it's a must-see for next visit. It's a vast complex, and in summer the Rome Opera put on a production here. This is what you might call the back wall, seen as you enter.

Then I walked a circuit right around the staging area and found this welcome oasis.

Welcome because I hadn't had dinner, so a sandwich and glass of wine helped.

The opera had a modern setting. So much so, that Carmen took a selfie with Escamillo, the bull-fighter! This set, for Acts 1 and 2, is at the US and Mexico border. I expected a Trump reference any moment, but it didn't  happen.

And for Acts 2 and 3 we are in the mountains, and you can see the background has been removed leaving the stark ruins of the Baths. Onto these, actual mountains were projected, making the whole thing very real. They played with it a bit - well more than a bit - at one moment the presidents' of Mount Rushmore were projected.

It was a magical night at the opera.