Arriverderci Roma, Bonjour Paris

Saturday 8 July 2017 - Usual tidy up, leave the key inside, bang the door. Metro to Termini, Leonardo train to airport. Here's a great sight, a shiny 3-wheeler full of Lemoncello.

Nice flight, here's a towering cumulus we skirted tactfully around.

Not sure where I am at this point, but I would say it's descending coming into Paris. Still a way to go, but clearly not at 35,000 feet.

There were delays getting into my Paris apartment, so not much more to say for today. I went to one of my favourite places for dinner, and it didn't disappoint.


Sunday 9 July 2017 - Just a walk around today, including looking at shops. Security is everywhere. Bags are checked entering the Les Halles shopping mall - once in, there was additional security entering one of my favourite shops, FNAC. I find it amusing that no one's interested in checking your bags as you leave these days!

And I found something very special right in the heart of Paris. I have always wanted to go to an Ikea shop in Europe - just to see the design influence. I didn't make it to Ikea, but this is the French equivalent, just opposite the northern end of the Pompidou, Leroy Merlin. Floors and floors of everything you could need for the home, including rebuilding it.

Spotted this light fitting in there and did a double-take. Not sure of the origin.

Appian fail, Carmen win, and a pleasant interlude inbetween

Friday 7 July 2017 - I tried to 'do' the Appian Way today, but it was a big fail. I ended up on a bus that touched it, then veered away to places hitherto unknown, touched ancient stuff again, then departed again. I don't really want to talk about it. It was the most bone-shaking bus ride I have ever had, and it seemed to go on for ages. Actually, it did go on for ages.

So the only photo you get from this morning's exertions is of the Circus Maximus.

I finally escaped the bus back in Rome and happily walked from then on. Had a pizza near the Coliseum, went home for a nap, started packing, then ventured out again.

Piazza Navona with Bernini's fountains was glorious, despite the heat. I was desperate for somewhere to sit down in the shade but the church with steps had, in a very Christian way, fenced them off!

The highlight today, and one of the highlights of the trip, was a production of Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla. This is an historical site I haven't visited in Rome, and it's a must-see for next visit. It's a vast complex, and in summer the Rome Opera put on a production here. This is what you might call the back wall, seen as you enter.

Then I walked a circuit right around the staging area and found this welcome oasis.

Welcome because I hadn't had dinner, so a sandwich and glass of wine helped.

The opera had a modern setting. So much so, that Carmen took a selfie with Escamillo, the bull-fighter! This set, for Acts 1 and 2, is at the US and Mexico border. I expected a Trump reference any moment, but it didn't  happen.

And for Acts 2 and 3 we are in the mountains, and you can see the background has been removed leaving the stark ruins of the Baths. Onto these, actual mountains were projected, making the whole thing very real. They played with it a bit - well more than a bit - at one moment the presidents' of Mount Rushmore were projected.

It was a magical night at the opera.

Capitoline

Thursday 6 July 2017 - Note that my first days in Rome have blog entries at the time (or thereabouts). Heading to the Capitoline Museums today. Here's my notes, "It's big, and the most confusing museo I've ever been in. Kept going up and down stairs and not finding what I wanted". The sign-posting was hopeless too.

Here's what I call Big Foot, part of the colossal Statue of Constantine. There's just bits left. They say the original was 12 meters high - and he was seated!

This is called Boy with Thorn (no shit), or Spinario. The Capitoline one is reputed to be the original bronze, but there are copies all over the place.

Another frequently copied sculpture is Dying Gaul. This is a Roman marble copy. The Hellenistic original is thought to be lost.

There's a good elevated view of the Forum from the back of the Capitoline.

And here's a highlight (although not for the horse). This is one of those sculptures that defies the hard and brittle nature of the material used - just look at the skin clenched by the lion's teeth.

After all this culture and museuming, there's only one thing to do... go for a beer. Coincidentally, I had read about this cute ivy-covered bar the previous night.

Domus Aurea

Sunday 2 July 2017 - I was very excited about this pre-booked visit, and I wasn't disappointed - definitely a highlight. The Domus Aurea, also known as Nero's Golden House, has been closed to the public for a long time, only recently re-opening for tours. It's still a working archaeological site, so visits are only on Sundays, and you've got to kit up, as this intrepid explorer shows.

Nero's development originally covered some 80 hectares (200 acres) but figures vary among scholars. It included a large man-made lake, and the Colosseum is built over part of the complex. The pavilion we can access part of today was originally about 370 meters east to west.

The proportions are staggering, most of it having these vast high ceilings. Some of the decoration can still be seen, but the marble was stripped out long ago.

Early explorers and looters (that's not one of them in the photo) came in from above, destroying quite a bit of the structure and decor.

A new feature is a virtual 3D tour of what it would have looked like. It was very good. With the goggle thing in place, you could turn your head and look all around like you were there. This is a shot of the next tour, taken as we were leaving. They looked really comical sitting on the boxes and turning there heads around in unison with the commentary.

Later that same day, after dinner, I went back to the Colosseum to get some night shots. This was only a 10 minute walk from my digs.

Laterina to Roma

Saturday 1 July 2017 - Okay, everybody out... of the villa, that is. Big tidy-up, farewells, inspection by Martina, and we're off to Rome. We're driving on the A1, and when it comes time to consider a morning break, I vote for the Autogrill. Bit of a sentimental moment, because I first saw these on my first trip to Europe in 2005 when I did a coach tour. I haven't seen them since, because I haven't travelled by road over there.

They're just amazing, the way they span the whole motorway, and have all sorts of stuff for sale, produce, and meals. It was a bit of a disaster though, we went upstairs to the posh bit, but the food on offer wasn't that great, expensive, and we still had to go downstairs for the coffees. Downstairs was frantically busy, crazy. They're organised for the caffe though - huge number of machines, and baristas churning out the coffees. There's a few coffee carts at home I think could take a lesson here.

Here's an inspired idea from the window of the Autogrill. The solar panels not only produce electricity, they're providing much needed shade for the cars.

We checked into my Airbnb apartment in the Monti, had a great lunch, and then went for a stroll to the Coliseum.

Ya never know who's spying or photographing ya. Here we see woman picked up in small street by spiffy black BMW. Actually, it's my friends leaving for the airport, all flying home (while I still have weeks to go, tee hee).

My next mission was to get a PDF file printed out, because my visit the next day insisted on printed tickets, and they changed something, so my previously organised voucher was invalid. That became a very long walk on a Saturday, but I eventually found a place. I found out later that there was a place a few doors from my apartment, but they weren't open on Saturday.

So after a long walk, a tourist in Rome deserves a beer... a beer with a view that is.

I deliberately left this photo at it's jaunty angle to show how ridiculous selfies are - it is a selfie, eh?

San Gim

Friday 30 June 2017 - Breakfast at Laterina, then off to San Gimignano. It's all about the towers, but there's plenty of history before the "I can build a bigger one than you" stuff started. Here's a ground view of the Piazza Duomo (I think).

View of that piazza from the highest tower, Torre Grossa.

And a couple more views.

I went to a Cartier-Bresson exhibition here which was pretty amazing. While there I was able to get this view, with 8 or 9 towers in it - it's very difficult to get numerous towers in one photo.

So here's a little tower history.

"San Gimignano rises on top of a hill 334m above sea level, clearly visible in the distance with its many towers. Today 13 towers remain of the 72 towers of the fourteenth century, when every well-off family built a tower to show its economical power (many of them are still visible in the buildings, even if they were cut off).

"In medieval times, the tower was the higher symbol of power, mainly because the building process was not simple or cheap at all. Materials needed to be dug and transferred to town, and the building site arranged. Only the richest families of merchants and moneylenders could afford the works of construction."

Anghiari II, and Laterina for dinner

Thursday 29 June 2017 - Two of our party left this morning, then we went back to Anghiari - because it was a first visit for some, and there's always more shopping to be done. It's a pretty village.

Not sure who this dude is.

But here's some interesting history, "The most important period in the history of the town is associated with the Battle of Anghiari which was fought in 1440 between the Visconti armies from Milan and those of Florence which were allied with the Pope. Machiavelli spoke about the battle in his Historiae fiorentinae and Leonardo da Vinci executed a huge and short-lived fresco of it in Florence".

After a wee zzz, swim, and repairing shoes, we went to our local village, Laterina, for dinner.

Legend has it that whosoever removes the sword from the rock, gets to own the village (or something like that). This turkey did not succeed.

Riccardo and Rita run Caffe Michelangelo there and made friends with our group as many had morning coffees there.

This was a wonderful local meal with friendly hosts and genuine village atmosphere. I've written in my notebook, "This was just magic".

Siena market, getting lost, and an amazing dinner

Wednesday 28 June 2017 - We deliberately made a second visit to Siena to go to the market - Wednesday was market day. Comments similar to earlier ones about the markets here. Good fun though, and I bought a shirt.

Then it rained, and I got lost trying to find my way back to the car. Got soaked and sheltered in a bus stop eventually.

On the way home, we stopped for lunch at a truck-stop style cafe. It was great local atmosphere, and really good pizzas. But the most memorable thing was a TV blaring out the Simpsons - in Italian! Hilarious.

Home for a swim, and another home-cooked meal of fabulousness.

Throughout our time of the villa, the women delighted in buying handbags. Many, many, handbags. So we decided to have a photo shoot of them. And to be fair, there are two or three man bags in there too!

Latereto for lunch

Tuesday 27 June 2017 - Had a sleep-in this morning and then did emails, banking, etc. At lunchtime, I wandered up the road to our nearest village, Latereto. One of the things we noticed about Tuscany was the plethora of street signs. And in Europe, there's always a blue van gets in my photos.

This stack of signs confronts the driver arriving in Latereto. Then just over the rise, you get this lot.

Given the heat we experienced, the snow warnings amused us though. Here's a view of the village (it's very small).

And I had lunch at the Casa Vacanze Le Fornaci.

I sat outside in a nice covered area looking out on the countryside. It was very pleasant with good food and wine. Very personal service (I was the only one there!).

Here's a view of our villa on the walk back home.

Lake Trasimeno, Deruta, Montepulciano, and Paella

Monday 26 June 2017 - A pleasant drive through the Tuscan countryside and into Perugia, where we stopped for a coffee at Lake Trasimeno. It was nice to see an expanse of water in such hot conditions.

Then we went to Deruta - sorry I don't have any photos here, but here's a little information.

"Deruta is a hill town and comune in the Province of Perugia in the Umbria region of central Italy. Long known as a centre of refined maiolica manufacture, Deruta remains known for its ceramics, which are exported worldwide."

Yes, some members of our party made purchases contributing to said export industry.

Then we went round the other side of the lake for a pleasant (and somewhat celebratory) lunch at Castigliano del Largo.

Off to Montepulciano for a look around.

An exhibition called “Leonardo da Vinci: Visions” was being held there. One feature was this reconstruction of a giant horse, over seven metres tall. It is characterised by faithfulness to Leonardo’s drawings and to the casting process invented by him. It is, however, made of composite materials.

Home for dinner cooked by some skilled volunteers who served up a magnificent paella, preceded by a dish called "Moroccan intercourse". Go figure.

Some of us had a late swim after dinner.